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Château de Mazan

Among a puzzle of bumpy farm tracks between Villes-sur-Auzon andMéthamis stands La Ferme du Pezet, a stone-built mas where balmyevenings unfold beneath a giant horse chestnut strung withlightbulbs. Before chef-patron Pascal Morin took over therestaurant 21 years ago, the tables were virtually in thevineyards. Now there's a smart paved terrace with a little wall tostop you falling into Château Pesquié's grenache, but the feelingof being surrounded by wine country is still thrilling. The vinesextend in leafy lines towards the west and, 29 kilometres to thenorth, mighty Mont Ventoux loses its shape gradually as dinnerheads towards nougat glacé.

When Marc Valentini, an organic winemaker and fruit grower baseda couple of kilometres away at Saint-Estève, looks out towards thesetting sun from the dinner table, he leans back and spreads outhis arms. "This living valley of ours - it's unique, it's generous,it's beautiful," he says. Valentini starts work far too early to beover-sentimental about the land, but now that the day's heat isreceding and there's a great big magret de canard in front of him -with mash, baked tomatoes and a syrupy nectarine sauce - he canemote happily.

Hôtel Crillon leBrave

The glass of Ventoux AOC in his hand is from Domaine de laMassane at Bédoin, one of 130 wineries in the appellation and atthe heart of the Vaucluse department. Apart from its wine, thismountainous region bordered by the Rhône to the west and theDurance River to the south is famous for the legendary Ventoux, thehardest climb in the Tour de France. Valentini's own domaine, GrandVallat, is tiny and well respected. When he retires next year, hecan do so with pride, a creator of wines that joyfully expresstheir terroir.

Thirty years ago, most of this fertile bowl, south-east of theCôtes du Rhône Villages AOC and north of the Lubéron, producedgrapes for the local cave coopérative and more or less gluggabletable wine. Growers began to do their own thing during the 1980sand, now that Gigondas and Vacqueyras are in the money as Burgundyprices hurtle towards absurdity, the Ventoux AOC is becoming moreand more interesting.

Lavender fields,Sault

Near Flassan - a staging post for cyclists about to tackle thebig hill - Paul Vendran tends the same grapes that his father,Albert, sold to the co-op, only he grows chardonnay, as well asviognier, is now certified organic and his reds are structuredenough to age a little. His Ferme Saint-Pierre makes a prettilyrustic dégustation stop, an unflashy shed of a winery among lushfoothills - though, Vendran tells me, he is so used to the view itdoesn't wow him much. Domaine Le Van in Bédoin is an organicvineyard, referred to in France as "bio". Its Zinc des Potes syrahis made with carbonic maceration, a Beaujolais technique thatcreates light, fruity, chillable reds. Then there are newcomers,such as Englishman Graham Shore at Domaine Vintur near Caromb, whoacquired his patch of fully mature vines in 2010 and has alreadybeen festooned with awards.

The pace of change for visitors to the region has been slow andsteady, too. Belgians and Dutch on two wheels are hooked on itsTour de France thrills, and there's a hard core of Anglo expats whocame for a summer and stayed. Compared with the Lubéron and theRiviera even more so, the Comtat Venaissin (the valley's historicdesignation; it was a papal enclave until the 1800s) is Provenceuntouched and untouristy. Some of its prettiest villages don't evenhave shops, let alone boutiques. The spectacular produce in themarkets - Carpentras strawberries, melons from Cavaillon, Venasquecherries, Caromb figs, white and green asparagus from Monteux -doesn't always translate into great restaurant food, but you'll eatlike a cardinal if you know where to go.

Dishes at RestaurantJérôme  Blanchet at Hôtel Crillon le Brave: purple potatognocchi, seasonal vegetables and Burgundy truffle (top), sea basscarpaccio with Espelette pepper, crisp Provençal snails andcaviar (bottom).

One of Valentini's recommendations is a drive to see PatriciaCarreaux, a cheesemaker high up at Col Notre Dame des Abeilles, awild eyrie on the route from Villes to Sault. As you leave thefertile basin behind and climb to meet the mountain's bareshoulders, hardy trees crouch to tough it out against the mistral.It feels like the edge of the map, with nothing but scrubbysteepness from here to the first outposts of theAlpes-de-Haute-Provence department. Madame is taciturn (what did Iexpect from a lady who lives on a hilltop with a herd of goats?)but her smallholding is all charm, with a sweet and friendly guarddog, roses by the door of the low-tech crèmerie, and potted herbsfor sale. Her handmade cheeses - crottins from frais to sec - are€1.50 a piece, and count as a true flavour of this part ofFrance.

On the approach to Sault, a village under UNESCO protection, asingle rogue lavender field appears on the right, then another.Then, as I take a hairpin bend, an immense counterpane of green,gold and purple unfurls, which will last until the harvest inmid-July. Sleepy Sault is on the tourist map, with the odd coach inthe car park in summer, even on non-market days. Come for anice-cream, a couple of fantastic food shops, and the lunch of anoenophile's dreams.

After a sniff around the Maison des Producteurs, which sells thelocal spelt grain and all items lavendery (sweets, honey, babybath, dried lavender flowers), I head for Yves et Virginie, a pairof impeccably kept side-by-side produce stores to plan a picnicaround. The saucissons are house-made, and the lamb ham - Yves'original invention, he says, made from boned-out gigot - is fromlocal animals. His little shop is garlanded with cured sausages,terrines in jars (pheasant, wild boar), taxidermy and the diplomasto back up his proud demeanour. The counter is a neat-looking feastof caillettes, aka Provençal faggots, goat's cheese wrapped incured ham, jambon persillé, carrot salad and stuffed vineleaves.

Yves et Virginie

Close by is Le Provençal restaurant, endorsed by every sommelierin the region. There are simple, enjoyable dishes here, such aschilled aubergine timbale with tomato coulis, then garlicky porkmedallions or duck with olives, and Paris-Brest or peach ice-creamto end. Both the interior and shady terrace are plain and low key,and it's cash only for lunch menus around $24; nothing screams"amazing Loire/Burgundy wine list", yet there it all is: magnums ofDidier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fumé, 1996 Clos Rougeard, and Corton andLa Tâche grand crus at low mark-ups. As I lunch with a humble glassof Mâcon-Villages, I see the manager of André Boyer, thebeautifully panelled nougaterie that sells the elegant almondsweets called calissons, on her way home for lunch, closelyfollowed by her grey cat, Mimi.

Some of the most ambitious cooking hereabouts is served on thepanoramic terrace of Hôtel Crillon le Brave, a rambling, historicconcatenation of eight ancient houses in a village that was all butabandoned after World War II. Crillon is stylish and luxe, with tworestaurants, a bar, a swimming pool with a view, and a chic spahoused in old stables. Big, cool, calm suites are decorated in softgreys and mauves, with traditional tomette floor tiles, massivewardrobes and paintings by fêted local artist JulianMerrow-Smith.

Hôtel Crillon leBrave

Chef Jérôme Blanchet, previously at top chef-finishing school LeChantecler at the Negresco in Nice, started at the Crillon threeyears ago, and has won a local following and wide reputation. Theold Provençal tropes were dismissed and regional flavours embracedwith aplomb. This means prettily plated lamb and pork from Ventoux,wild trout from L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, game and mushrooms in season,foie gras from the Negresco's supplier, Bresse chicken, Bretonlobster and cheeses from Carpentras legend Claudine Vigier. Afterdainty amuse-bouches of aubergine tempura and lentil gazpacho, aprecise and vivid dish of crab royale comes with a gelée of tomatowater from super-ripe tomatoes from Eygalières, creamy burratina,beetroot crunch and cornflower petals. Sommelier Bénoît Liébus hasmatched the crab with a grenache-roussanne-clairette from Domainede Fondrèche, near Mazan. Across the valley, all the greens changeto the same smoky blue as night falls.

It's easy to assume that the hotel, which comprises 28 rooms,seven suites and a standalone two-bedroom house, occupies theentire village, but there are 250 other houses in Crillon, and whenI step out of Maison Philibert (each grand stone building is namedfor a former resident), I remind myself I am in a public street,not a hotel corridor. There are private nooks to repair to: thepétanque piste above the pool, and a quiet little adults-only suntrap for imbibing Henri Bardouin pastis on a lounger. Lunch iscrudités and club sandwiches on the terrace; the jollier secondrestaurant, a cosy courtyard with eyefuls of bougainvillea, fig andolive trees, has a blackboard menu of soupe au pistou, goat'scheese salad, spelt risotto, and custardy cherry clafoutis.

Château de Mazan

The hotel can arrange truffle and wine weekends, and cyclingsprees, or simply direct guests to that day's nearest market. It'sa 10-minute drive to the small town of Bédoin, whose traders donicely from the velophile dollar. The modest main drag is linedwith cafés and bistros (my favourite is the family-run Gousse d'Ailfor truffle-stuffed guinea fowl, or gigot with garlic), andresounds with street commerce every Monday morning.

Avoid the saucissons and soaps - any local will tell you thequality is better in the supermarket. Check out olive-wood bowlsand chopping boards, etchings and laminated tablecloths in jauntyProvençal repeat patterns; virtually everything here is"artisanale", even fridge magnets of puppy photos. For somethingtruly handcrafted, head up a set of stone steps near the CentreCulturel to find the Poterie Brueder, where Louis and VirginieBrueder make, fire and sell wonderful stoneware bowls and plates,glazed in flaming red and black. For a snack to go, Lou Cigalou isthe bakery that supplies Hôtel Crillon le Brave; the cannelés andfocaccia at Olivero-Ravel are good, too.

Smaller and more strollable, the Saturday market atPernes-les-Fontaines takes place along the pedestrianised canalsideQuai de Verdun, and is truly charming. Look out for the strawbaskets called cabas, mountain cheeses such as tomme de brebis,rosy garlic, picholine olives, and the strawberries, melons,cherries and apricots attracting the longest queues. The rôtisseriechicken, quail and guinea fowl look, smell and are good, and don'tmiss tarts sweet and savoury, made in a pizza van by a guy calledDenis. Twenty organic producers - of spelt pasta, Camargue redrice, Ventoux chickpeas, fruit juices from Flassan - arerepresented by a woman called Isabelle and her tiny greentrailer.

Cheese at Bédoinfarmers' market

Among the honey producers here, as well as in Bédoin andCarpentras, are Edmond Ziaja and his wife, who have a farm nearPernes and move their 700 colonies as far as Sault and Banon,according to season. Ziaja is a former electrician who has been abee man since his teens, and now concentrates on apiculture, makingwonderful lavender, acacia and chestnut honey, as well as headygarrigue scented with wild Provençal herbs such as thyme, sage androsemary.

Good, simple places to eat in Pernes are the restaurant atorganic vineyard La Camarette, and Côté Jardin grill, just by themarket. In Saint-Didier, a short drive to the east, an unexpectedvillage find is Régalia, run by the charming Renaud Boisson andYuko Kai, who offer refreshing respite from regional cuisine viahandmade sushi, gyoza and even chawanmushi. In Venasque, apicturesque, unspoilt village perché surrounded by forest and rockformations, Les Remparts is a modest yet excellent place to dinenext to big open windows, among paintings by the owners' friends,on dishes such as a tomato Tatin or tiramisù Provençal with pesto,confit quail with anchoïade, spiced magret de canard, and classiccrème brûlée or île flottante.

Château Unang

I came across Régalia thanks to a tip from Joanna King, whomakes and sells organic wine with her husband, James, betweenVenasque and Méthamis, the latter a medieval village overlookingthe Gorges de la Nesque, with virtually zero tourist traffic.Château Unang, passed down among the bishops of Venasque until theend of the 17th century, is worth visiting for a wine tasting justto experience what Joanna calls "the amazing soul or feeling aboutthe place".

From a wine point of view, the domaine has its own geologicaldesignation; the soil is called "sable d'Unang" and, intriguingly,crops up in the Gigondas AOC, too. Unang's wines have a particularfreshness, thanks to the cooler mornings in this protected part ofthe valley. Sample them and take a walk round the vineyard withoutan appointment, or reserve a picnic dégustation at a private tableset in the formal gardens with fougasse, goat's cheese, tapenadeand caviar d'aubergines, plus wine, naturally, fruit, and nougatfrom Saint-Didier. Joanna also puts on cheese and wine tastingswith Claudine Vigier.

Incomers from the Vendée (which makes them foreigners, they tellme), Philippe Danel and Marie Pirsch found Domaine du Tix in ruinsin 2001, surrounded by four hectares of table grapes and all buthidden in the woods between Mormoiron and tiny, pretty Blauvac,below the chapel at Notre Dame des Anges. They've grown theirwinery from scratch, forging a completely new life and vocation,and produce what Danel describes as "a departure from aggressivehunters' wine", full of complexity and elegance. Next door, rurallyspeaking, is Domaine des Anges vineyard, where the now-retiredMalcolm Swan pioneered interesting winemaking in the Ventoux duringthe 1970s and 1980s.

Domaine du Tix

Mazan, a no-nonsense market town on the way to Carpentras, has aglamorous Marquis de Sade connection in the shape of Château deMazan, built for the Sade clan around 1720 and the depravedaristo's home at the time that he created France's first theatrefestival in 1772. Frédéric Lhermie and his mother bought themansion in 2001 and restored it in sober, elegant style, bringingpaintings and antiques from their family home, and decorating eachof the 30 rooms individually.

The restaurant has a terrific reputation for refined gastronomy- especially fish and seafood, often lacklustre in the Vaucluse.Chef Franck Pujol is Breton, hence the special lobster menualongside the truffle menu, which pairs seared red mullet withtruffled parmesan cream, and rhum baba with truffle ice-cream.

Carpentras is the capital and commercial centre of the ComtatVenaissin, with a population of 30,000, and an historic old-townquarter with remarkable façades, a Roman arch, a 14th-centurysynagogue and 15th-century cathedral. The market that takes placeevery Friday is immense, and a leisurely walk around it makes agood introduction to the city. Among excellent shops is a pair ofunmissable specialists. La Fromagerie du Comtat Vigier, establishedin 1982 by a couple from Lozère, is run by their daughter Claudinewho not only attends to her cheeses and her customers with greatsensitivity, but also nurtures her suppliers, fosters an impressivelocal network, and plays ambassador for French cheesesoverseas.

Vigier is not wholly about cheese. A gaze around reveals saffronfrom Pernes, jam made with Cavaillon melon, truffled artichokecream, pork terrine laced with lavender, and wines from Unang,Fondrèche and Paul Vendran. But the selection of goat's cheesesalone is an education: Chevrotin des Aravis from the Haute-Savoie,chèvre lauze du Fraischamps from Le Beaucet (the prettiest, withedible flowers), Saint-Gens from Mont Ventoux, rolled in chestnutash, wine-washed picodon from Dieulefit. Ask about the housespecialities, too: Fourme des Dentelles, injected with muscat deBeaumes de Venise, le Petit Colonel en Vadrouille, made with applemacerated in Pommeau, or the Brin d'Amour, a Corsican sheep'scheese with Ventoux herbs.

Poterie Brueder

Turn right out of Vigier and walk down rue d'Inguimbert untilreaching rue l'Évêché. Turn left to have a drink in the square;turn right for a world-class chocolatier and confectioner sobrilliant that Japanese admirers have collaborated with the ownerson a branch in Tokyo. Pâtisserie Jouvaud is a third-generationenterprise, established in 1948, and a delight. Polished wood,brass and gleaming glass form a reassuringly old-school backdropfor Florentines, calissons, candied fruits, chocolate slabs studdedwith nuts, huge meringues called rocailles, cream cakes, orangettesand dragées.

It's very smart in Jouvaud, with its sophisticated lollipops andthe chic yet restrained homewares section. There are cute remindershere that we're not far from the ploughshare or the hoe:marshmallows in seasonal fruit flavours, and little bags of"olives" made from grilled almonds in green-lacquered darkchocolate.

The Pays du Ventoux is fruitful above all, from the grape to theolive and the juicy cherry. Small producers are highly visible,with their single-product stalls at the tiniest markets. "It feelsvery real living here," says Joanna King. "There are still smallfarmers in the village who work their asparagus or cherries. Wedrive around thinking, gosh, this is just our trip to the shops orthe school run, but it's so beautiful."

Getting there
Our driving tour of the Vaucluse department starts in theProvençal city of Avignon, where rental cars are available at theTGV train station; Hôtel Crillon le Brave and Château de Mazan areeach about 40 kilometres away. Avignon is about three hours fromParis by train; a France Rail Pass is available at Media de Mazan
Family-run luxury hotel with fine dining. Rooms from about $185.Rue Bernus, Mazan, +33 4 90 69 62 61

Domaine des Anges
Two self-catering apartments and a house are available from theend of April to the end of September/mid-October, with a swimmingpool among vineyards. Apartment from $725 per week. Mormoiron, +334 90 61 88 78 

Hôtel Crillon le Brave
Small luxury hotel with a gastronomic restaurant. Rooms from $230.Place de l'Êglise, Crillon le Brave, +33 4 90 65 61 61

Maison Trévier
City chambre d'hôtes in an 18th-century inn with cookery classes.Rooms from about $220. 36 Place du Docteur Cavaillon, Carpentras,+33 4 90 51 99 98

Le Mas au Portail Bleu
Small, stylish B&B with swimming pool. Rooms from $130. 102Chemin de la Mayolle, Aubignan, +33 4 90 62 61 10

EAT AND DRINK
La Camarette
439 Chemin des Brunettes, Pernes-les-Fontaines, +33 4 90 61 6078

Château Unang
Route de Méthamis, Malemort-du-Comtat, +33 4 90 69 9137 

Les Chèvres des Marins
Col Notre Dame des Abeilles, Monieux, +33 4 90 64 04 23

Côté Jardin
221 Quai de Verdun, Pernes-les-Fontaines, +33 4 32 80 93 32

Domaine de la Massane
880 Route de Carpentras, Bédoin, +33 4 90 65 60 81

Domaine du Tix
Quartier Notre Dame des Anges, Mormoiron, +33 4 90 61 84 43

Domaine Le Van
Route de Carpentras, Bédoin, +33 4 90 12 82 56

Domaine Vintur
Route de Malaucène, Carpentras, +33 4 90 28 82 72

La Ferme du Pezet
L'Eau Froide, Villes-sur-Auzon, +33 (0)4 90 61 70 62

La Ferme Saint-Pierre
953 Chemin Pontillards, Flassan, +33 4 90 61 89 96

La Fromagerie du Comtat Vigier
23 Place Maurice Charretier, Carpentras, +33 4 90 60 00 17

La Gousse d'Ail
Rue Portail Olivier, Bédoin, +33 4 90 12 82 02

Lou Cigalou
Place de la République, Bédoin, +33 8 99 37 71 28

Olivero-Ravel
Le Cours, Bédoin, +33 4 90 35 02 49

Pâtisserie Jouvaud
40 Rue de l'Évêché, Carpentras, +33 4 90 63 15 38

Le Provençal
Rue Porte des Aires, Sault, +33 4 90 64 09 09

Régalia
14 Le Cours, Saint-Didier, +33 6 22 15 69 00 

Les Remparts
36 Rue Haute, Venasque, +33 4 90 66 02 79

SHOP
La Maison des Producteurs
Rue de la République, Sault, +33 4 90 64 08 98

Poterie Brueder
140 Chemin des Treilles, Bédoin, +33 4 90 12 84 31

Yves et Virginie
Rue de la République, Sault, +33 4 90 64 01 16 12 Tabous À propos de Chambre D Hotes Bedoin Vous ne devriez jamais partager sur Twitter | chambre d\'hotes bedoin - chambre d hotes bedoin | Encouraged to be able to our blog, with this time I am going to show you concerning keyword. Now, here is the very first graphic:
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